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The San Diego Union-Tribune

 
Mosques, minarets and markets are highlights

December 26, 2004

Although "metropolis of the Indian Ocean" may be too grand a term, the Maldivian capital of Male is the largest city between Sri Lanka and Madagascar.

More than 80,000 people crowd into its 4 square miles, making it one of the world's most densely populated capitals. Although Male isn't on the traditional tourist trail, nobody should visit the archipelago without spending at least a day in the city.

Male's foremost attraction – and architectural gem – is the Hukuru Miski, or Old Friday Mosque, the country's oldest place of worship. Now largely overshadowed by larger, newer structures, the tiny mosque (built in 1656) is covered in intricate coral-stone carvings.

The bulbous minaret looks more like a New England lighthouse than anything you would expect to find in the Indian Ocean. Surrounding the mosque is the island's oldest Islamic cemetery, with imposing headstones and the elaborate tombs of famous sultans and sultanas.

Directly across the street is the blue-and-white Mulee-aage, or Old Palace, a Victorian structure that hearkens back to the days when the Maldives were a British protectorate. Now used as a guest house for visiting dignitaries, the palace grounds contain the tomb of Abu al-Barakat, a Moroccan traveler who introduced Islam to the archipelago in 1153 AD.

A block further west is the Binaa Square, where a modern bronze sculpture commemorates Maldivian independence from Britain in 1965. Flanking the square are the golden-domed Grand Friday Mosque and leafy Sultan Park, which features the National Museum.

Among the museum's treasures are ancient weapons, clothing, sultanic thrones and mysterious stone figures (discovered by Norwegian explorer Thor Heyderdahl) that predate Islamic times.

West of Maidhaan Square, (with its giant Maldivian flag), is the bustling fishing port and market area. You'll often see six different types of tuna in the rather aromatic fish market. And watch your step – the floor is slippery!

The nearby fruit and vegetable market hawks all sorts of tropical delights, including bananas, mangoes, coconut nectar and huge screw-pine fruits.

Not far away is the $50 million presidential palace, a modern addition to the Male skyline that reflects the bygone style of the old sultan's palace. Photographing the presidential guards is forbidden.

– JOE YOGERST

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